HAIR COLOR

Hair Coloring Methods
About Color Correction
Hair Coloring Products

Hair Coloring Methods

Before determining how I might color someone's hair, I will need to know a few things first. The history of previous color is important. It determines what products I can use or not use. The desired look is something we will talk about together. I like to consider the the future of how continued coloring will effect your hair over time and put your hair on a path towards optimum health and beauty. I council my clients on what their hair color choices will mean to the integrity of their hair. I may not do whatever a client wants me to, but I will come up with reasonable ideas and get your hair where you will like it again.

Ombre Color

This is trending right now. To me, ombre is an evenly faded color gradient when the ends are a different color than the roots. The transition should be smooth without a line of demarcation. This does not mean let your hair color grow out because it looks cool now. I'm not on board if it simply looks like neglect or dip dyed.

There are several techniques I use to achieve a flawless gradient. Some people are now inter-using the name balayage with ombre. Some are simple, like back combing, or balayage, and some effects take more work, like a "Double" or "Triple" foil. It is exactly as it sounds. I take 2 or three foils in each parting. It is very time consuming but also creates undeniable effects with color gradients.

Balayage

This is highlights or color done without foil. A tool is used to comb in hair color or lightener. This is nice for coloring through the entire length of the hair.

Highlights or Lowlights

Also known as a "foil". This can be done in a number of ways, with foil, paper strips, or balayage, a tool used to comb the color in. Not all the hair is colored. Some of the client's hair color is left untouched. The blends create a variety of dimension to a dull flat color. Many different effects can be achieved this way. Whether you want subtle color or striking highlights, the possibilities are endless.

Double or Triple Foil

This is when I foil the hair that I left out from the same parting that I just foiled. It can be very time consuming but it is much more effective with certain looks than just alternating color foils. I use it for ombre looks or getting that extra lighted blond .

Global Color

Color is applied all over the entire head. This is for a complete color change, covering gray, or to richen existing color.

Contrasting Foil

This is where one color is darker and one color is lighter than your existing color. It creates a little more depth for lighter colors to shine though. This can also be used to correct color when someone creates a brassy look from an all over home color kit.

Block Color

Global hair color where hair is sectioned out in different partings and different colors are applied to each section. This creates an endless number of possibilities and effects.

Semi-permanemt Color

This is a color that fades with time and does not cause damage. This is used to richen color or tone it gently. Lasts 4 to six weeks.

Double Processed Color

Or "triple" processed. This is the number of different applications of color used. Multiple processed color can mean a global color with highlights. This can mean a removal of color and the addition of a new color. Many times with color correction, multiple processes may be necessary.

Gray Coverage

L'Oreal has one of the best lines for stubborn gray hair coverage. L'Oreal's new technology with "Ionene G" and "Incell" is able to break into hard to color gray. There are also special gray coverage techniques that we know to use.

Coloring hair extensions

Hair extension hair can be bought in different colors and blended together to create the exact match for a clients existing highlights. Hair extension hair is sometimes processed different and the reaction to regular color can lead to undesirable results. It is easy to do touch ups on hair with extensions. However, changing the entire hair color if there is a set of hair extensions in your hair is usually not recommended. At the salon, your hair color is done first, then perfectly matched hair extension hair is added. However, if you do come to the salon with a situation where your hair extension color does not match your hair, this can be fixed.

Techniques I am against that others use:

Color in between the foils. Why do I hate this? It is extremely damaging. It makes it hard to retouch the color the same way without damage. Why? I consider it a sloppy shortcut method. Foils do not color all the way to the root. Color does. This means that the base of the foil will be colored. This means that the next time you touch this up, that you bleach through where you colored and color through where you bleached, eventually causing damaged hair and a dependency on in-salon conditioning treatments. About this time is when you looked me up to do hair extensions. A two process color is better suited to achieve the same but better results.

Another common technique I do not find properly effective is the use of a bleach lightener when a hi-lift tint should be used. Some colorist were never educated on the use of color as a lightener instead of bleach. If you have fine hair, level 6 or 7, light brown or a dirty dishwater blond and use bleach, the condition is ruined.

I also can not fathom why people use a base color when your hair is not gray. I get complaints of it being to brassy looking. I don't do it. These are the issues when people call me for help. I've been in salons who emphasize add-ons to your total ticket price. Hilights, color in between, a "glosser" or toner after or both after, plus monthly in-salon conditioning treatments. This makes you the ideal color client. I've seen charts claiming how much extra money a hairdresser should make by selling these extra processes.

I also find it unethical when a hairdresser does color in a manner that makes the client feel "obligated to come in sooner." I heard this come out of an educator's mouth one day. "Don't blend it so the line of demarcation comes out sooner?" Well, guess what really happens? They do not call the same hairdresser when that happens.

How can I forget the black underneath with blond on top. Classic Ugly. This is a trend that I beg to be over. It is done on short hair and long hair. It's okay to be darker underneath, but not Currulla D'Ville. To each their own I guess. But this look is over and very "two decades ago." I like to make hair pretty and there are so many other creative ideas out there. This is not one. I find this method to be cheap in it's look and application. In the back, it creates a black hole and the blond on top does not cover. (See picture below.) It separates to expose the black hole and the blond looks thin and unhealthy. It is an easy way to do hi-lights without all the work of foiling all of the hair. If you want this look please consider better alternatives or call someone else. It is not an impressive look in any way ever.

I should take the time to thank all the hairdressers out there who create ideal situations that lead clients to call me for hair extensions. Thank You.

Your Ultimate Color

My hope is to give you fantastic color that doesn't lead to damage or hair extension dependancy. But if we do decide on a bold, compromising color, we treat it with the best care.

Hair Coloring Methods
About Color Correction
Hair Coloring Products

 

The consultation appointment is complimentary. This is where we analyze your hair and talk about design and pricing options before we set an appointment for hair extensions. A security deposit is required to secure your appointment day. If you live far away we can do the consultation on the phone and through email with pictures of your hair.